Buffalograss Lawn Care Schedule

Timing: early March to mid-April

Warm-season turf begins breaking dormancy as soil temperatures reach about 55°F, but it isn't actively growing until the soil warms to roughly 65°F.

Do not scalp Buffalograss to bring it out of dormancy. The deep low spring reset is a bermuda and zoysia practice; on Buffalograss a scalp thins the stand rather than resetting it. Its own recommended height of 2–3″ is where its reserves and its shade and weed tolerance live, whether that number is high or low.

Rake or collect loose matted leaf; mechanical dethatching is a separate treatment requiring species-specific timing and recovery. Mow at the normal height. Follow the one-third rule: never remove more than a third of the blade in one pass.

Don't fertilize until it's about 50% green and actively growing — roughly when soil temperatures hold above ~65°F.

Timing: mid-March to early April

Apply a pre-emergent herbicide as soil temperatures climb through the low 50s°F — before they reach the ~55°F at which crabgrass germinates — to stop summer weeds before they start. Whether a second pass is called for, how long after the first, and what the season's total may add up to are all set by the active ingredient and rate on your label, not by a general rule: some products are labeled for a split program and some are a single application for the year. Pick the product first, then read its split-application and maximum-annual-rate directions.

Timing: early May to late June

Core-aerate during active growth to allow recovery; avoid aerating dormant or drought-stressed turf. Before dethatching, measure the layer: over about ½" warrants assessment, not automatic removal. Consider grass type, site conditions and symptoms, and follow local species and equipment guidance. For dethatching, ordinarily wait for full green-up and active growth with recovery time, including on St. Augustine and centipede. Oklahoma offers pre-green-up guidance; do not generalize it nationally. Confirm species, method and recovery conditions locally.

Timing: early June to late August

Spot-treat broadleaf weeds during active growth, never on drought-stressed turf. Watch for insect and disease pressure in hot, humid weather and treat problem areas rather than the whole lawn.

Timing: mid-June to mid-July

Summer is the warm-season growth peak. Less is more — Nebraska Extension (G1947) puts buffalograss at 0.5–1 lb of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft for a low-to-medium-maintenance lawn, split into two applications a month apart for the best response, for about 1–2 lbs of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft per year total; your own state extension service's figure for your area takes precedence, and many buffalograss lawns get by on even less. Excess nitrogen mostly feeds weeds and forces mowing the grass does not need. Spread the annual budget across the season rather than applying it all at once.

Buffalograss is the exception to the usual spring/summer/fall rhythm: Nebraska Extension puts its whole year's nitrogen in one mid-June to mid-July window, split a month apart, because fertilizer applied earlier feeds the weeds rather than the buffalograss — it will not green up any sooner for being fed. There is no spring or autumn feeding on this schedule for that reason.

Timing: early September to late October

Fall is the best time to take a soil test: lime or sulfur has the winter to react, and you go into spring with a real pH and fertility picture instead of guesswork. Send it to your state extension lab and tell them which grass you grow — the target pH is species-specific, and a lab that knows you have centipede reports against a different range than one assuming bluegrass.

Timing: mid-September to mid-October

A fall pre-emergent applied before soil cools below about 70°F controls winter annual weeds like Poa annua and henbit.

Timing: early November to late December

Wherever winter brings frost, expect a brown, dormant lawn from the first frost until spring green-up: hold off on fertilizer and pre-emergent, and give a light watering during extended winter drought to prevent desiccation. In the warmest, nearly frost-free areas (roughly USDA zone 10 — south Florida, coastal Southern California), the lawn often just slows down and stays partly green rather than going fully dormant; keep mowing and watering lightly as needed, and it can still use a little nitrogen or iron for winter color.